Takayama

8th to 10th October

Kyoto to Takayama 314km.

We left Kyoto at 10am and arrived in Nagoya at 11am only to find all the trains to Takayama had been knocked out by the typhoon. We dashed about seeking help and booked a bus that left at 4pm - it took the same time as the train would have.

Takayama is surrounded by mountains and is rich in timber. From 1692 to 1868 it was under direct shogunate control.  Because of it's isolated location, it has many unspoiled Edo-period streets lined with tiny shops, museums and restaurants.  The local water is ideal for sake brewing and so there's eight sake breweries.

Once I found out that a big festival was held here in October, I planned the whole trip around fitting it in.  The Hachiman Matsuri or Autumn festival dates from 1690 and takes place every year coinciding with the rice harvest.  Processions of 11 floats or portable shrines, guided by townspeople in traditional costume during the day and night. Started as an outlet for artisans and tradesmen to show off their wealth. 

We stayed at a minshuku or family run b&b.  We had a traditional room but had to share bathroom and toilet.  The public bath was filled with hot-spring water and was super super hot!  I had to add cold water in order to even get a toe in.  The toilets were on each floor and you had to leave your 'house' slippers outside the door and slip into the 'toilet' slippers once inside. Since the toilet was in a cubicle it was easier to ignore the toilet slippers - I'm more worried about who's been wearing them!

Since Takayama is so small, it was very easy to find good places to eat and drink. We found a Western style pub with cheap beer and food and full of loud, drunk guys.  Takayama is famous for their beef which is supposed to be as good a Kobe.  They also do a version of Okono miyaki pancakes but with beef.  There was a micro brewery which sold their draft beer on the street during the festival - German style and pale ale.

A farmer's market is held every day along the banks of the river and because of the festival there were also food stalls. We had some of our best meals there.  Each stall has a place to sit and eat as it is not encouraged to eat and walk with your food. Very sensible!  Our favourite food was Tako-yaki or Octopus dumplings cooked in a cast iron pan.


 

Takayama

8th to 10th October

Kyoto to Takayama 314km.

We left Kyoto at 10am and arrived in Nagoya at 11am only to find all the trains to Takayama had been knocked out by the typhoon. We dashed about seeking help and booked a bus that left at 4pm - it took the same time as the train would have.

Takayama is surrounded by mountains and is rich in timber. From 1692 to 1868 it was under direct shogunate control.  Because of it's isolated location, it has many unspoiled Edo-period streets lined with tiny shops, museums and restaurants.  The local water is ideal for sake brewing and so there's eight sake breweries.

Once I found out that a big festival was held here in October, I planned the whole trip around fitting it in.  The Hachiman Matsuri or Autumn festival dates from 1690 and takes place every year coinciding with the rice harvest.  Processions of 11 floats or portable shrines, guided by townspeople in traditional costume during the day and night. Started as an outlet for artisans and tradesmen to show off their wealth. 

We stayed at a minshuku or family run b&b.  We had a traditional room but had to share bathroom and toilet.  The public bath was filled with hot-spring water and was super super hot!  I had to add cold water in order to even get a toe in.  The toilets were on each floor and you had to leave your 'house' slippers outside the door and slip into the 'toilet' slippers once inside. Since the toilet was in a cubicle it was easier to ignore the toilet slippers - I'm more worried about who's been wearing them!

Since Takayama is so small, it was very easy to find good places to eat and drink. We found a Western style pub with cheap beer and food and full of loud, drunk guys.  Takayama is famous for their beef which is supposed to be as good a Kobe.  They also do a version of Okono miyaki pancakes but with beef.  There was a micro brewery which sold their draft beer on the street during the festival - German style and pale ale.

A farmer's market is held every day along the banks of the river and because of the festival there were also food stalls. We had some of our best meals there.  Each stall has a place to sit and eat as it is not encouraged to eat and walk with your food. Very sensible!  Our favourite food was Tako-yaki or Octopus dumplings cooked in a cast iron pan.


 

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